Tuesday, June 25, 2019

machine knitting: Miura-ori origami scarf

Miura-ori scarf on a domestic knitting machine (brother)

the finished scarf on my instagram @iamdonatella

Knitted fabric with pleats, folds and uncommon self-pleating patterns are not a novelty - think Issey Miyake "pleats please", but I thought that these kind of "origami-like" shapes would have been possible only on the fancy industrial knitting machines.
On social media, I've been mesmerized by the images of Drew McKevitt, Victoria Salmon and SJTextiles (check them out!)

To understand why and how a knit fabric folds in a certain way, I studied  Alessandrina's several blog posts, then tried over and over, starring and pictures of fabric, until I got it right (took me 8 swatches!) I was finally able to make the "Miura-ori sharp angles" pleated fabric on my brother machine. It's time consuming, but well worth it!

I tried the pattern in cotton 2/20 yarn with 3 strands, using the slider lever on the ribber set on I - but after swatching with the slider lever on II I liked the fabric better, it's perfect on either side.

here a visual on how the paper gets creased and folded :
Miura-ori illustration from reserarchgate.net

accordion paper folding from mini eco

swatch: *CAST ON* L 28 + R 28yarn: 2 /28  cashmere 2 strands
ZIG ZAG: ribber slide lever II → both carriages t.0 → 2 (Row count with broken toe cast on

TUB: II → t. 2**--> RC 6 → set row counter to 0
RC 0 → full needle rib -  II -  t. 5** CAR RX

gauge: 10 x 10 cm = 34 St x 48 R

The hand manipulated stitches are worked only EVERY OTHER ROW, on even ROW numbers, so always knit 2 rows after patterning.

This pattern is worked in full needle rib (half pitch lever on H) so every time the pattern requires to transfer stitches from main bed to ribber or viceversa, the half pitch lever on the ribber needs to be pushed back to P. (it's easier to transfer the needle just across rather than at an angle).

campione: avviare 28+28 aghi
filato: 2/28 cashmere a 2 capi
ZIG ZAG: 2a frontura con leva carrello su II --> carrelli t. 0 --> 2 (contagiri con avvio "broken toe"
TUB: II --> t. 2** --> contagiri 6 --> azzerare il contagiri
Contagiri 0 --> II t. 5** -- carrelli a destra
campione 10x10 cm = 34 punti x 48 righe

I punti vengono trasferiti a punzone manualmente OGNI 2 RIGHE, ad ogni GIRO PARI, quindi dopo aver spostato gli aghi si lavorano sempre due righe.

Questo motivo e' lavorato con tutti gli aghi su entrambe le fronture (con la leva della 2a frontura spostata su H), ma ogni qual volta si deve trasferire i punti dalla 1a frontura alla 2a frontura e viceversa, la leva della 2a frontura deve venire spostata su P (e' piu' facile trasferire un punto sul suo dirimpettaio anziche' trasversalmente).

Miura-ori origami SCARF:

cast on  L55+ R55 //  avviare 55+ 55 

for my scarf, I repeated the pattern 8 times, plus knitted extra 16 rows at the end, then 4 rows of tubular knitting (to match the beginning) and used the smiles and frowns bind off.
So in total were 528 knitted rows plus the tubular at beginning and end.
The scarf weighs 210 grams, and measures 33 cm in width x 110 cm in length (it's not very long, but I finished the yarn!!)

nella sciarpa, ho ripetuto il motivo 8 volte, piu' lavorato altre 16 righe alla fine, e 4 giri di tubolare (per ottenere inizio e fine uguali) e poi ho terminato il lavoro ad ago con questa tecnica .
Quindi, in totale 528 righe piu' il tubolare all'inizio ed alla fine.
La sciarpa pesa 210 grammi, e misura 33 cm di larghezza x 110 cm di lunghezza (non e' molto lunga, ma avevo finito il filato!!)

step-by-step  origami pattern photo tutorial:

this is the initial setting, for the basic pleats -
questa e' la selezione iniziale degli aghi, per le pieghe di base - 

KNIT 16 ROWS // 
** the number of rows can vary in between the "creased effect"
** il numero delle righe puo' variare  a piacimento per "l'effetto piegature"


Meanwhile, I'm handknitting a similar pattern, too! 

my handknitted WIP origami shawl on Ravelry next to the machine knitted swatch

For some additional information about pleated knitting, visit: multifunctional foldable knitted structures

and for a whole visual: go check out my pinterest board dedicated to folds and pleats  :)

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