Monday, September 16, 2019

double sided jacquard on brother machine!

The English version of this technique is explained on Alessandrina's blog, so I'm only going to write the italian version!






EFFETTO JACQUARD REVERSIBILE USANDO LA FUNZIONE "FINE LACE" E VANISÉ
SU BROTHER FIRST LADY (KH930) 
CON SECONDA FRONTURA


* Istallare il beccafilo VANISÉ della seconda frontura.
* Infilare la macchina con il filato di colore base sull'antenna destra e quello con il colore contrastante sull'antenna sinistra (nel mio campione, verde e' il colore base e blu il colore vanisé)
* Effettuare l'avvio a maglia unita utilizzando entrambi i filati, tenendo il primo e l'ultimo ago in lavoro sulla prima frontura. (nel mio campione, S30 + D30 sulla prima frontura e S30 + D29 sulla seconda frontura)
* Utilizzare la tensione adatta al filato in uso (nel mio campione il filato e' cotone/lino 2/20 e ho lavorato a tensione 6 su entrambe le fronture)
* Posizionare i pesi, fare i giri di maglia tubolare per l'avvio e qualche giro a maglia unita per l'inizio, fermarsi con il carrello a SINISTRA all'esterno dell'indicatore di inversione.
* Selezionare il motivo (io ho usato il motivo 35 della macchina, un motivo semplice e ben definito senza troppi dettagli), e ho selezionato la scelta di avere il motivo ripetuto su tutta la larghezza degli aghi impiegati.
quindi: SELETTORE 1 - STEP - CE - 35 - STEP - STEP  e spostare il selettore del carrello su KCII
* Spostare il carrello da sinistra a destra - gli aghi vengono selezionati
* Premere i tasti MC + L insieme (aiutarsi con un punzone, avendo il ponte della seconda frontura attaccato che e' proprio di fronte a questi tasti)

* Nel caso il disegno richiesto dovesse avere gli aghi alle estremità in lavoro, spostarli manualmente in posizione B per evitare che cada il punto
* Lavorare il disegno fino ad ottenere la lunghezza desiderata
* Spostando il selettore del carrello da KCII a NL, la macchina ritornerà a lavorare a maglia unita

---> NB: quando uso il metodo vanisé metto sempre un pezzettino di nastro adesivo sul beccafilo dopo aver infilato i filati, in questo modo: il filo di contrasto resta nella sede ed il filo di base non può entrare nella parte del beccafilo dedicata al filo di contrasto.

buon divertimento!
xox, d.


Wednesday, July 31, 2019

stripes and leftovers, and a dress, too.

old yarn,  new dress 

This dress is the result of a lot of leftovers from previous projects with the same kind of yarn - 2/20 50% linen /50% cotton.

I didn't have enough yarn to make a single color garment, but it's amazing what small quantities on 10 different colors can do!  Never underestimate the power of your stash!

Stripes are my best pick at stash-busting.

There are several stripe generators online, some of which let you even select how many rows you want to have as minimum, and the quantity in % of each color to use, but I decided to not do random, but to have a selection of pattern repeats that would please my eye.

I used to make my patterns in Excel, but now I'm more used to Gimp, so after swatching my yarn, and calculate the number of rows that I needed for my dress, I started playing with colors... after many changes, my final decision was this one!
All these yarn in small cones are 2/20  cotton/linen,  I
added a thread of clear monofilament to give it a little sparkle
Work In Progress! 
my gimp image with the color palette at the bottom



After knitting the front and the back of the dress, there is the finishing part, which is equally important: matching the stripes is key, and a good looking edge around the armholes and the neckline will make the garment stand out.
I sewed the sides with mattress stitch, for a perfect match of the stripes

sleeves and neckline edges - tutorial



Wednesday, July 10, 2019

handmanipulated stitches for a different take on chevron


self-striping yarn gives the best results (IMO) when used in a stitches that vreates movement, such as a ripple or a zig-zag.
this yarn was purchased at Lia Gallo 


this is why I wanted to make a simple boxy sweater out of this cotton yarn with my favorite colors!

from my Instagram

As you can see from the picture in detail, the columns of stitches aren't all the same size, and this is what gives movement to the pattern.

from my Instagram

I'm sure this can be created with the electronics machines, but ...
a- I'm not a lace card wizzard
b- the number of passes of the lace carriages would be insanity...
c-... I love a good OHM moment and use my transfer tools!

here's the video tutorial on how to make this stitch:



If you love zigzag and chevron ... I made a whole pinterest board dedicated to it!

have fun!
xox, d.

Tuesday, June 25, 2019

machine knitting: Miura-ori origami scarf

Miura-ori scarf on a domestic knitting machine (brother)




the finished scarf on my instagram @iamdonatella

Knitted fabric with pleats, folds and uncommon self-pleating patterns are not a novelty - think Issey Miyake "pleats please", but I thought that these kind of "origami-like" shapes would have been possible only on the fancy industrial knitting machines.
On social media, I've been mesmerized by the images of Drew McKevitt, Victoria Salmon and SJTextiles (check them out!)

To understand why and how a knit fabric folds in a certain way, I studied  Alessandrina's several blog posts, then tried over and over, starring and pictures of fabric, until I got it right (took me 8 swatches!) I was finally able to make the "Miura-ori sharp angles" pleated fabric on my brother machine. It's time consuming, but well worth it!

I tried the pattern in cotton 2/20 yarn with 3 strands, using the slider lever on the ribber set on I - but after swatching with the slider lever on II I liked the fabric better, it's perfect on either side.



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