Saturday, November 17, 2012

DIY Marc Jacobs knit and crochet sweater

could you really believe that I wouldn't make this sweater?

After I mastered the crochet stitch used for the shawl, I thought I could really have a matching sweater to go with, perfect for warming up the winter.

left pic: net-a-porter - collage by moi
Details at the collar:

left pic net-a-porter - collage by moi
I love the whole crocheted look, but:
- Given my {limited} hight, would probably be too bulky and NOT look good.
- In general, I don't like having very chunky sleeves, because they always don't feel right under coats and jackets.
- I saw that Marc Jacobs also had a vest version with the back knitted in stockinette, So I gave it a try for a sweater with stockinette on the back and sleeves (and also used a thinner yarn for the stockinette part)

And ...I'm rally pleased with the result.

pics from and

What I used:

* knitting needles and circular needle size 8.5 mm
* knitting needles size 5 mm
* crochet hook n.9
* main color: dark teal 50% alpaca - 50% wool : 400 gr.(4 balls)
* contrasting color : mix of wool and metallic thread (see here)

How to DIY this knit & crochet sweater:

I measured the size of my shawl to figure out how many stitches I would need for the front of the sweater.
In my case (size 2) 55 stitches {14 crocheted "blocks")

*Cast on (using tubular method) 55 stitches and work in 1:1 rib for:
- 4 rows with the main color
- 2 rows with contrast color
- 2 rows with the main color
- 2 rows with contrast color
- 2 rows with the main color

* bind off the stitches

* don't cut the thread on the last one: turn the work and use it with the crochet hook

* start with 2 chain st. (this will serve as first double crochet stitch), and keep using the stitch previously explained for the shawl, using the bind off stitches as your first row of chain stitches.

* keep going until you reach the collar area, where I left 4 "blocks" in the center and worked: (keeping the pattern with one row of chain stitches, and one rows with 3 + 1 ch. st.)
one line of 5 blocks on each side,
one line of 4 blocks + 1 double cr. st. on each side
one line of 4 blocks

I hope the picture is explaining better than words:

The base pattern of the sweater is a big rectangle for the back, and two trapezes for the sleeves: really basic.

For the back and the sleeves, (because I like to complicate my life) I wanted to use a lighter yarn, but because this alpaca blend that I love so much only comes in super bulky... I decided to split the 3 ply.
(one yard at the time, because it gets so twisty!)

The ribbed parts on front, back, sleeves and collar are all made with the super bulky yarn, using the 8.5 mm needles - the stockinette parts are knitted with size 5 mm needles.

I split 1-1/2 balls and it was enough to finish the whole thing (plus I have some leftovers).

Because this is a matter of "guestimating" I made a swatch using the thinner yarn with the 5 mm needles, and did the math of how many increases I had to make after the ribbed parts to be able to work with the thinner yarn and keep a consistent shape of the sweater.

For the collar, I knitted on the circular needle, and ended up having an extra row at the end, then I knitted with a contrast color yarn 3 more rows that will help me sewing the collar in place without unravelling. 

Stitched the collar in place, unravel the contrast color rows and ..."enjoy" the cold weather !

xox, d.

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