Friday, October 5, 2012

DIY: leather and scalloped edges

This is a refashion of a refashion... sometimes it happens.

You might recollect when I gave new life to THIS SWEATER.

I liked it, and wore it.
But I have almost everything in grey and black.
So I decided to give it a re-birth with:

leather, contrasting color and scalloped edges!

Back to square one, ripped off the sleeves and pockets.
And used a pair of 80's red leather pants (bought on Ebay for 15$) to make a bold, drastic change.

left pic: my inspo board @ - collage by moi
Leather paired with wool knits is popping on the scene for the past couple of years, and as far as I can see in my "fashion-crystal-ball" the trend is here to stay for a while.
In my board we can see names as Jil Sanders, Marni, Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, House of Holland: in my refashion I wanted to incorporate:  raglan sleeves, contrast bold leather color and scalloped edges.

first: leather patchwork

Because I didn't have a whole skin, I had to make pieces big enough for my sleeves: which means...
cutting all the pieces from the old pants giving a straight edges.
There are two ways to patch together leather: one is by doing "inseams" and sew two pieces together with a straight stitch and then flat the edges on the wrong side, and the other one (the one I picked) by putting next to each other two straight edges (wrong side up), apply some E6000 glue {because it stays soft}, placing ribbon on top of the glue, and then sew a zig-zag seam on the right side.
I picked this method because I had to patch together several pieces and I would have had way too many  seams with added thickness to my sleeves.

This is how the wrong side of the sleeves look like once it's done: note the ribbon with the zig-zag and (one of) the inseams onto the top and bottom part of the sleeves have the flat seam, which I secured flat-open with a small amount of E6000.

second: the raglan sleeve pattern

I used as a base pattern my old school's one. But I had to modify it once I cut it out in cotton fabric, because it didn't fit right.
The raglan sleeve is a two-piece pattern, and the back part is slightly smaller than the front part.
In the picture in the center you can see how mine ended up looking like.
I used the muslin several times because working with leather means no pins & no basting.
Which means... once it's up it's up... and if it's wrong it's ruined.
So, long story short... I tried the muslin on and off on my sweater several times, until it fit right.
At that point, I basted a strip of cotton onto the inside of my sweater, where the leather sleeves would need to be sewn. This will help because the wool knit won't stretch under the sewing machine and will keep it's shape, and because there will be a path to follow (not having the help of pins).

third: scalloped edges on pocket and sleeves

This was the fun and easier part!
Once done, I traced my pockets' pattern on paper, with scalloped edges (with the help of a bottle cap for the scallops), traced it onto the wrong side of the leather, and cut it out.
(and also punched a little 2mm hole just because!)
To sew the pockets onto the sweater, I used some mounting tape onto the wrong side of the leather, and sew the zig-zag stitch all around.

Same for the two bottom part of the sleeves, glued on the wrong side with the ribbon and then sewn with a zig-zag stitch onto the right side.

Did it come out perfect?
...mmmmhhh.. not completely. I could see improvement on the fit, most of all, the leather from the pants is a bit stiffer than what should have been used. But overall? I give myself a B+ !

xox, d.

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