Tuesday, June 12, 2012

DIY: from men's to Lanvin

from a men's basic t-shirt

to a Lanvin fabulosity

Just add grosgrain, a silk corsage and an hour of your time!

top right and bottom left: farfetch.com - collage by moi

step-by-step tutorials after the jump!

Start with a basic t-shirt bigger than your size: 
you'll need the seam of the sleeves 
to hit just after the rounded part of your shoulders
and 3yr of grosgrain 1-1/2" wide in a matching color

Note: for every refashion or alteration: 
ALWAYS wash the garment and the trim, fabric, anything that you'll use 
with the same cycle, temperature and eventually drying cycle that you'll be using 
once you'll wear the finished refashioned garment!!!

my t-shirt comes from the men's dept at OVS and was 5 Euros,
and 3 Eur of grosgrain... total 8 Euros!
(sort of like Target, european version)

The grosgrain neckline:

Sewing grosgrain in round isn't that easy, because grosgrain is stiffer than regular fabric, has vertical ridges, and it's not meant to be sewn in round.
So be ready to some trial and errors.

The neckline of this shirt is meant to look sort of wobbly. 
You might like it or not, I personally find it different and love it!

1* Wear the shirt and pin the grosgrain around the neckline, will be wider on the shoulders and slightly deeper in the back.
Leave a couple of inches extra in the middle of the back.
Take the shirt off and see if the pinning you've just done is symmetrical around the neckline, eventually adjust and try the shirt on again.

2* once you feel comfortable about the fit, sew the two sides of the grosgrain in the back with an angle, so that you'll have a small range of rotation.

3* baste the grosgrain in place.

4*sew the grosgrain with a straight stitch, trying not to pull while sewing.
It will look a bit funky, but will be ok after ironing.

5* cut the original neckline of the t-shirt, leaving about 1/4" around the seam: optional - zigzag either the t-shirt under the grosgrain new neckline, or over the seam you just did - I didn't do either. 

Shaping the sides:

One of the things I hate the most in t-shirts is the twist of the side seams after the first wash.
Because I'm starting with a much bigger size than I would need, I'll be able, during this process, to avoid that.

1* While wearing the shirt inside out, pin under your arms what would be the correct armhole for your size, and the right width at your waist.
Take the shirt off and start shaping the side seams of the shirt in a  "hourglass" shape, to give it the feminine look.

2* Don't force the seams to match, if the shirt is twisting, leave it and this way you can correct this annoying manufacturing fault.
Make sure that you're pinning both sides perfectly (almost) symmetrical.

3* Sew with a straight stitch, turn it right side out and top stitch with a twin needle over the side seams to give it a more finished look, and cut the excess fabric underneath.

The grosgrain armholes:

1* fold and iron the grosgrain not quite in half length-wise (just leave about 1/16" extra at the bottom part)

2* the part that is folded will go around your armholes

3* baste around the armholes, just over the existing seam

4* sew a straight stitch, the closest possible to the edge of the folded grosgrain

5* in this case, I did a topstitching with a zigzag stitch, to keep the grosgrain in place and flat

6* sew under the armholes where the two sides of the grosgrain meet with a zigzag stitch

Cut thee sleeves of the t-shirt under the grosgrain.
I used the fabric from the sleeves for the backing of the corsage.

If needed: adjust the hemline and sew with the twin needle.

And now you have it!
the t-shirt modified with grosgrain neckline and armholes,
just like Lanvin.

xox, d.

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