Wednesday, October 1, 2014

DIY - details inspired by Jil Sander

Jil Sander means clean lines 

and details that make the difference

When my s/daughter and I bought this black cashmere yarn we thought she would make something knitted by hand, so we had it put on a cone with three strands - this is a 2/14 yarn x 3, so rather thick, to be knitted with size 5mm or 8US needles.
top photo: Jil Sander // collage by moi

Little we knew at the time that I'd go crazy with my knitting machine, and apparently now she's pretty taken, too!
So there you have it - a sweater with some details stolen from Jil Sander.
Slanted sleeves on the front and a split neckline.


picture was taken after the sweater was worn  a couple of chilly nights watching TV on the couch...
that's why the wrinkly elbows and the rather stretched hem. :/
she was leaving, so I didn't have the time to get better pictures!


The execution: 

This sweater sits just after the waistline, shaped on the bodice, with darts in the front for better fit.
The back is longer than the front which wraps the shoulders, creating the slanted line seams in the front with the unique shape.
The neck has two slits - and the back part of the neck is rather longer than the front, which, again, gives the pretty, small details touch.
This pullover is a size M for a very skinny girl / the sleeves are gloves/like fitting.
Please check the measurements.


If you're going to knit this sweater by hand,
gauge is: 10cmx10cm (4"x4") 19.5st x 31 rows
Because the yarn is so thick, we had to use in stockinette at tension 9, but we had to come out with a plan for the ribbing parts.

needle arrangements for 1:1 ribbing with thick yarn
1 needle in working position every other 3 
NOTE: I casted on using the "broken toe" method,
this is why you'll have:
*odd number of needles/stitches
first and last needle has to be on the main bed,
*row counter at zig-zag at 2

FRONT:

cast on 89 st
1:1 tubular - 3 rows
1:1 ribbing - 19 rows
set row counter back to 0
machine knitting: adjust your needles to work stockinette (it would be every other needle) and tension dial on 9.

decrease 1 stitch on each side at row 5 - 10 - 15:  total # stitches at 15th row: 83
work on plain stockinette until row 33
increase 1 stitch on each side at row: 34 - 42 - 50 - 58 - 66: total # stitches at 66th row: 93
To make the darts in the front:

1" before the armhole (ROW 66):

-stop the row counter and place the carriage on H
-on opposite side of the carriage, place on hold position (E) 
-4 needles on each side for 3 times, and 3 needles on each side for 1 time.
-Place weights accordingly.
-Start the row counter, 
-lace needles in working position and keep knitting.
hand knitting: at row 66 start working the short rows for the darts using the W&T (wrap & turn) method.


keep knitting up until row 73
at 74 start shaping the armhole:
row 74 - bind off 4 stitches at beginning of the row
row 75 - bind off 4 stitches at beginning of the row
row 76 - bind off 3 stitches at beginning of the row
row 77 - bind off 3 stitches at beginning of the row
row 78 - bind off 2 stitches at beginning of the row
row 79 - bind off 2 stitches at beginning of the row
row 80 - decrease 1 stitch on each side
keep knitting up until row 109
row 110 start shaping the neckline and shoulders

Front: neckline and shoulders 

knit accordingly to the chart below:
if you want to print the PDF file, click here

BACK:

The back is knitted exactly like the front - except the darts for the breast fitting. 
After the armhole shaping, keep knitting until row 131, and then shape the neckline and shoulders accordingly to the chart below:

if you want to print the PDF file, click here

SLEEVES:

cast on 39 st
1:1 tubular - 3 rows
1:1 ribbing - 19 rows
set row counter back to 0
machine knitting: adjust your needles to work stockinette (it would be every other needle) and tension dial on 9.

Knit on stockinette, increasing 1 st at each side at rows: 16 / 32 / 48 / 64 / 80 / 96 - total n. of stitches at the end of increases: 51

Keep knitting up to row 113, shape the armhole exactly like the armhole for the front and back starting at row 114. Total n. of stitches after armhole shaping: 31

Keep knitting up to row 147, then start shaping the top of the shoulder, by decreasing in the following way:
row 148 - decrease 1 stitch on each side
row 150 - decrease 1 stitch on each side
row 152 - bind off 2 stitches at beginning of the row
row 153 - bind off 2 stitches at beginning of the row
row 154 - bind off 2 stitches at beginning of the row
row 155 - bind off 2 stitches at beginning of the row
row 156 - bind off 2 stitches at beginning of the row
row 157 - bind off 2 stitches at beginning of the row
row 158 - bind off remaining 15 stitches

NECKLINE:


For the neckline:
front : cast on (same method as before) 35 stitches for the front side and knit in 1:1 ribs  up to 20 rows
use ravel cord for 1 row and few rows with waste yarn 
back: cast on (same method as before) 45 stitches for the front side and knit in 1:1 ribs  up to 24 rows
use ravel cord for 1 row and few rows with waste yarn

Finishing:

Sew all the parts together.
Sew the neckline parts on live stitches with a back stitch, then sew together half way through the slits.
Hide the ends, wash in warm water, rinse well, place in the middle of a couple of towels, roll up the towel and press to get most of the water out, lay flat to dry.



This sweater was the first machine knitted project for my s-daughter: here she is, getting busy with the transfer tools while doing the shaping of the bodice!
I could have picked a rather simplified project as her first one, but this is what she wanted, so she was (tired) but extremely happy with the result (she DOES appreciate a good challenge!!!)

  
I hope this pattern was clear, but please don't hesitate to contact me if you need some explanation!

xox, d.



keep in touch! 

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