Monday, November 25, 2013

DIY Sabrina Dehoff Unification bracelet

This bracelet is been on my To-DIY-List literally FOREVER.

I finally got around to make it, and the best part?
Very little supplies, and some of are actually FREE.

top photo: Sabrina Dehoff - collage by moi

DIY Sabrina Dehoff 6 Times Cord Unification Bracelet - the supplies



* about 1-1/2 yr of thick cotton cords.
These are FREE: how can it be possible? just look in the pile of shopping bags you are hoarding, and you'll find plenty that have cotton cord handles. Just un-tie the knots inside the bag and use the cords.
I used two handles in grey and one in black for this bracelet - (I didn't have all grey ones, so I went for my two favorite winter colors: black & grey)
* 10 - 10mm closed jump rings 18 Gauge
* 2 -  barrel end cords with internal diameter 9mm (Mine comes from my stash, but  these would be the perfect fit)
* A lobster clasp and two jump rings for the closure
E6000 glue
* masking tape, scissors, needle and black thread.

DIY Sabrina Dehoff 6 Times Cord Unification Bracelet - the how-to // tutorial


tape the ends and the center of all three ropes

Cut the ropes in the center, leaving tape on each side to prevent fraying.

Arrange the ropes forming an elongated "C", keep the ropes laying flat,
and place some tape at about 3" from the center to keep it flat and from moving.

Fold the other three parts of cords in half,
and place them inside the "C" as shown in the picture.

To make the knot, fold the ends of the cords inside the loop and tie.
Arrange the cords neatly. 

Slip the first jump ring into the two center grey cords in the center.

Slip another jump ring onto the black rope and the grey close to the center,
then repeat on the other side

Now, slip the last two jump rings onto the black cord and the external grey  cord on each side.
Repeat on the other side of the knot.

Measure the length of the bracelet on your wrist, keeping in mind that you'll have the end caps,
and the clasp. Mine is 17cm / 6-3/4"

To secure all the six ends of the ropes and to make it possible to fit inside the end cap,
sew a few stitches and wrap around the thread tightly few times.
Cut the ropes leaving about 1/8" (2mm+/-) from the wrap.

Add few drops of E6000 around the ropes and on the top.

Place the end caps on the edges: it's a tight fit: I used a toothpick to tuck it in .
Now just let the glue dry!

xox, d.

keep in touch! 

Saturday, November 16, 2013

DIY Anna-Karin Karlsson sunglasses

"Cause I Flippin Can" ... I'm obsessed!

These sunglasses are so flippin' awesome!
...If you're taken by the look, but not so much by the price tag... You Flippin CAN make it yourself!

left top and bottom: www.annakarinkarlsson.com - collage by moi

Thanks yet, again to Readers.com for giving me the opportunity to have the coolest readers in town! (and a special thanks to Krista who made it possible!)




Cause I Flippin Can - DIY reader glasses - supplies:


* Tamara readers in animal print silver/black 
(I looked at several other cat-eye glasses, but you need a thicker frame for this DIY: these are perfect... meow!)
Black polymer clay
multiple roses silicone mold
* Superglue (check on the label that is suitable for plastic)
Gloss Glaze
* Red nail polish
* Masking tape, Double sided tape, ruler, X-ACTO Knife

Cause I Flippin Can - DIY reader glasses - the how-to // tutorial:


Fill all the cavities of the mold with the black polymer clay.
To get an even level finish in the back, use the X-Acto knife. 

I backed two batches (10 minutes in the oven)
leaving the roses inside the mold while backing,
since these roses are really detailed and couldn't pop these out
without compromising the petals.

Protect, protect, protect!
Use masking tape on the edges of the lenses to protect them from the next
possible messy steps!

Rehearsal time: place some double sided tape on the frame,
so you can pick the roses you like the best, and play with different arrangements.

This is the "bouquet" that I selected:
6 out of 13 roses which I placed in symmetrical way on the frame

Now, remove the roses and use superglue to
place them in the order they will be applied onto the frames.

This is one of the two roses that is going on the outer edge:
because there is a metall connector  on the frame,
you'll need to carve a little dent in the back of these two roses,
so that once glued they'll sit perfectly flat.
LET DRY! ( I waited a couple of hours to make sure)

Apply a coat of glaze on the roses using a small paintbrush.
LET DRY! (another couple of hours...)

Measure and place masking tape on the outer side of the sidepieces.

Use the red nail polish to paint the top part of the frame,
and the sidepieces (make sure that the tape is well sticked so no nail polish will go underneath)
LET DRY...
And apply another coat.

...and LET DRY ... AGAIN!
(I let them dry overnight to be better safe than sorry!)
I used a tall glass jar to place my glasses in, so they wouldn't touch any surfaces while getting ready.

Aren't these just So Flippin' Perfect?

xox, d.

keep in touch! 


Monday, November 11, 2013

DIY horizontal cables: a one piece sweater

chunky knit + red + cables

As I pointed out in my previous post, red, cables and chunky knits are on my radar for this sweater weater!


I love, love LOVE this yarn: the black speckles over the red mohair make me think of a watermelon!

Inspired by all the cables seen around, and these.

left: COS (from last season)
top right: tahkistacycharles.com (free pattern)
bottom right: store.vogueknitting.com

I loved the cables in the COS sweater, but I really don't wear dolman sleeves. They sure look good, but to me, they are absolutely uncomfortable under jackets and coats.
So my version is a non dolman-sleeve, knit in one piece with a wider boat neck.


Supplies needed:




* 5-1/2 balls of Tahki Yarns - Saratoga - Red # 60.
Single Point Knitting Needles, Sizes 3.5mm (US 4), 4mm (US 6) and 4.5mm (US 7)
Circular Knitting Needle, 3.5mm (US 4) and 4mm (US 6)
Clover Jumbo Bent Tapestry Needle-2/Pkg

I wanted to use the the yarn I won at the fair over the summer, but with two balls, I couldn't go too far. This yarn is discontinued, but fortunately I was able to find 5 more balls from a Raverly member.
(and I also got a ball of the same yarn in grey on Ebay... which for now is sitting in my stash basket, but will eventually become something!)

Horizontal cables one piece sweater: the how-to // tutorial


* cast on 45 stitches (wrist)
* 4 rows tubular - needles size 3.5mm
* 8 rows rib 1:1 needles size 4mm
* switch to needles size 4.5mm



The plait/braid cables are 15 stitches wide, separated by reverse stockinette.
The plait/braid cables are mirroring each other with alternate cable every 10 rows.
Increases and decreases are done always at the time of the cabling of the plait/braid, to avoid extra counting.

1st & odd rows: P7 - K15 - P1 - K15 - P7
2nd & even rows: K7 - P15 - K1 - P15 - K7

PLAIT / BRAID CABLE 



9th row:
P7 - sl next 5 st. to cn and hold in front, K5, K5 from cn, K5 - INC1 - P1 - INC1 -
K5 sl next 5 st to cn and hold in back, K5, K5 from cn - P7

Keep knitting, increasing every 10 rows in between the plaits/braids:
* at the moment of the 13th increase in the center, increase 4 more stitches: 1 (each side) at the beginning/ end, and another one on the external side of the plait/braid.

* Reach 17 stitches on the sides and 21 stitches in the center of the plaits/braids, ( total stitches 85) and reach the desired length of the sleeves.

* cast 59 stitches on each side using the provisional cast on method, and you'll have 203 stitches on your needles - on the right side you'll have:
P16 - K15 - P15 - K15 - P15 - K15 -  P21 - K15 - P15 - K15 - P15 - K15 - P16

Work all 203 stitches for 18 rows,
19th row (on the cable): //
NECKLINE DECREASES (at this point you'll have two separate pieces on your needles. Is up to you if you want to work it separately or together: Although there are a lot of stitches, I prefer to knit all together to avoid the need of keep the row count twice)
P16 - K15 - P15 - K15 - P15 - K15 -  P10 - DEC1- P10 - K15 - P15 - K15 - P15 - K15 - P16
at the next cable:
Decrease 1st on each side of the neckline // repeat for 2 more times always at the cable//
then decrease 1st only on the side that will be the front of the sweater for 3 times.
The next 8 rows in between cables, represent the exact middle part of the sweater.
From the next cable, 
everything will be done in reverse, 
therefore INCREASE where 
was a DECREASE and viceversa.  

Once reached the top part of the second wrist, use a tapestry needle to do the invisible bind off.
Sew the two sides.

This sweater has an oversize fit: see all the measurements below (I'm a size 2).



Bottom hem:

Cast on 210 stitches on a circular needle size 3.5mm, work 4 rows tubular, then with circular needle size 4mm work 8 rows rib 1:1, and sew onto the bottom with a tapestry needle and a back stitch.

Neckline:

boat neckline detail
Pick the stitches around the neckline (193 st.) and work with a circular needle size 4 mm in 1:1 rib for 8 rows + 4 rows tubular with 3.5mm circular needle.
Close with the invisible bind off using a tapestry needle.



Stay warm!!

xox, d.

keep in touch! 



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